Anderson Valley: Cool country

This distinct wine-growing region within Mendocino County traverses a lovely swath 15 miles long, from Boonville west through Philo and onward toward the Pacific Ocean. It is among the coolest places in California where grapes will grow happily, with ocean fog that drifts precipitously along the Navarro River and up the valley’s hillsides and ridges. The grapes hang long and low, building up a noticeable natural acidity that’s the envy of other regions.

The conditions excel in particular for Pinot Noir, the marquee varietal behind so many of Anderson Valley’s most sought-after wines. Temperatures can vary by about 10 degrees from the valley’s northern end, nicknamed the Deep End, to its warmer south, providing interesting variations in the wines. Pinots grown closest to the ocean exhibit brighter, raspberrylike fruit; Pinots from the warmer ridges evoke greater spice and dark cherry.

Varietals common to the region’s comparably cool cousin, the Alsace area of France, also do well here, with vintners long perfecting Anderson Valley versions of Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Muscat, giving the region a singularly eclectic edge.

Dr. Donald Edmeades is largely credited as being the first to plant Gewürztraminer, among other varietals, in the Anderson Valley in the mid-1960s, though the folks at Navarro Vineyards, Handley, Husch and Lazy Creek were not far behind. The region became its own distinct, official appellation in 1983.

Together these pioneering vintners and growers built the region’s reputation for successfully nurturing all manner of cool-climate grapes, with the rise in stature of Pinot Noir nudging up Anderson Valley’s reputation to serious new heights. The Pinots, particularly over the past several vintages, are now among the most sought after in the world, made by estate-driven properties scattered all along Highway 128 and up into the hills, as well as many notable producers (Littorai, Black Kite, Copain, Roessler, Skewis, MacPhail) from outside the area, which seek out those chosen blocks of fruit the way others might look for wisdom.

On the other side of the coin, Anderson Valley’s under-the-radar whites are fairly priced, spectacularly fine with a variety of food or as an aperitif, and provide yet another reason for a visit up to the valley to taste, which is always a great outing.

The best way to experience the rugged path to Anderson Valley is to travel west on Highway 128 from Highway 101 at Cloverdale, where the road winds through the understated Yorkville Highlands appellation and its handful of wineries. Continue on through the yellows and subtle greens of oak trees and tall poplars and the region’s signature redwoods, through dairy land and modest homesteads until the road hits the town of Boonville, and the valley officially begins.

Producers to visit

Breggo Cellars: Breggo is among the newbies of Anderson Valley, a joint venture between husband and wife Douglas Ian Stewart and Ana Lucia Benitez that is already turning heads. Food & Wine Magazine named it Best New Winery at the 2008 American Wine Awards. Much of the hubbub is about the Pinots — one from Ferrington Vineyard, one from Savoy and another from Donnelly Creek, all stellar. 11001 Highway 128, Boonville. 707-895-9589, breggo.com.

Esterlina Vineyards: Up in the highlands above Philo, Esterlina’s estate-grown Pinot Noir is big but balanced, while the winery’s nod to Alsace includes a dry and an off-dry Riesling from its own 253-acre Cole Ranch (its own subappellation, among the world’s smallest). Both are citrus-laden wines with plenty of wildflower, peach and vanilla flavors. 1200 Holmes Ranch Road, Philo. 707-895-2920, esterlinavineyards.com.

Foursight Wines: Foursight’s tasting room opened in March just south of Boonville, a showcase for the small, family-run producer’s Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. Its “Zero New Oak” Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir is, as it states, aged in older barrels; it offers three other Pinots from the same estate vineyard, which was first planted in 2001. 14475 Highway 128, Boonville. 707-895-2889, www.foursightwines.com.

Goldeneye Winery: Premier Napa Valley Merlot producer Duckhorn decided to get in on the Pinot Noir game early on, establishing its sister property, Goldeneye, in Anderson Valley in 1996. The first vintage of Goldeneye Pinot Noir was released in 2000 to such acclaim that the estate now includes five separate vineyards planted to 19 different clones of Pinot Noir, with the goal being to benefit from the varying microclimates strewn about this unusual region. 9200 Highway 128, Philo, 800-208-0438, goldeneyewinery.com.

Greenwood Ridge Vineyards: The Green family first bought Anderson Valley acreage in 1971, thinking it would be a fun place for weekend retreats. Soon enough they were bitten by the wine bug, buying vineyard property from Tony Husch and dabbling in a bit of home winemaking. Now complete with an architecturally stunning winery building located on the northern side of Highway 128 next to Navarro, Greenwood also makes a delicious white Riesling, a moderately sweet, honeyed-peach version of the varietal; a late-harvest white Riesling, a favorite of dessert wine aficionados; and a tiny amount of low-alcohol, high-acid Pinot Gris. 5501 Highway 128, Philo. 707-895-2002, greenwoodridge.com.

Handley Cellars: Milla Handley founded Handley Cellars in 1982, impressed by Anderson Valley’s viticultural reputation for bright acidity, long hang time and great flavors, traits she first began to appreciate while working with Jed Steele at Edmeades winery in Geyserville. Falling in love with Pinot on a trip to Burgundy, Handley now returns the favor with her estate Pinot Noir, an intoxicating blend of cherry, chocolate and signature earthiness. Handley’s Gewürztraminer has lusciously exotic fruit flavors, steely acidity and refreshing balance. If it’s in stock, don’t miss the chance to buy a bottle of Handley’s Anderson Valley Brut Rosé — so good that it’s more often than not sold out. 3151 Highway 128, Philo. 707-895-3876, handleycellars.com.

Husch Vineyards: When Tony Husch planted Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer along Highway 128 in 1969, he was among the first pioneering minds to do so and also first to have a bonded winery in the valley. The first wines were produced in 1971, and the winery eventually was sold to Hugo Oswald Jr. In addition to its “T-Bud Dry Cuvee” Gewürztraminer, among other aromatic white wines, Husch makes a Muscat Canelli, a fresh, tropically fruited dessert wine, and a late-harvest Gewürz. 4400 Highway 128, Philo. 707-895-3216, huschvineyards.com.

Lazy Creek Vineyards: Founded in 1973 by Johann and Theresia Kobler, Lazy Creek has over the years become among the most respected names in the Anderson Valley, not only for its exquisite, estate-grown Pinots, but also its “old vine,” dry Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Chardonnay. Last year the famed estate was bought by Don and Rhonda Carano of Healdsburg’s Ferrari-Carano, who will continue to work with the winemaking crews to preserve its greatness. 4741 Highway 128, Philo. 707-895-3623, lazycreekvineyards.com.

Londer Vineyards: Wine drinkers really love Londer’s Pinot Noirs, especially its dark ruby, silky smooth, plummy Paraboll. But Shirlee and Larry Londer are just as beloved for their dry Gewürztraminer, a minerally, lychee, honeysuckle and rose wonder they make from the one acre of the varietal they planted in 2000. Call for appointment and directions, Philo. 707-895-3900, londervineyards.com.

Navarro Vineyards: Inspired by Alsace, Navarro founders Ted Bennett and Deborah Cahn built their winery in 1974 and, with winemaker Jim Klein, have been introducing Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat Blanc to curious wine lovers ever since. They say it dawned on them sometime in the early 1980s that the Anderson Valley was capable of producing outstanding Pinot Noir, too. Their dry Gewürztraminer is also a standard-bearer. Navarro welcomes visitors by providing picnic tables and plenty of supplies for purchase, including Cowgirl Creamery cheeses and Girl and the Fig spreads. 5601 Highway 128, Philo. 707-895-3686, navarrowine.com.

Roederer Estate: For something completely different, head up to Roederer Estate, a stately, serious tasting room with one of the nicest views over the Anderson Valley. The western outpost of Champagne Louis Roederer of France, Roederer has produced some of the world’s great Champagnes, most famously Cristal, since 1776. With about 600 acres of vineyards here, Roederer is also the biggest winery landowner in the appellation. Try them all, but don’t leave without a bottle of Roederer Brut Rosé. 4501 Highway 128, 707-895-2288, roedererestate.com.

Toulouse Vineyards: Long a source of Pinot Noir grapes to others (Baxter, MacPhail), Toulouse founder/winemaker Vern Boltz, a retired Oakland Fire captain, has more recently started making impressive Pinots of his own, winning awards for his very first vintage, the 2002 Toulouse Estate Pinot Noir. A rosé is also made from Toulouse’s Pinot grapes. 8001 Highway 128, Philo. 707-895-2828, toulousevineyards.com.

More stops

Anderson Valley Brewing Company offers tours of its brewery daily at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. and runs a friendly tasting room and pub just as you enter Boonville. A beer garden sits under shade-providing oaks, and amusements include a carriage ride around the property drawn by Shire horses or a game of disc golf. Some of its better-known beers include the Boont Amber Ale, High Rollers Wheat Beer and Deependers Dark Porter. 17700 Highway 253, 707-895-BEER, avbc.com.

The Apple Farm, halfway up the valley and off Highway 128 about half a mile, makes all kinds of apple-based goodies, its orchards a visual reprieve from all the vines. But it’s also a fun destination in itself, through its famous Farm Weekends — four hands-on meals (cooking and eating) and two nights in the farm’s cottages. Relaxed Farm Weekends, a less-intensive option, includes an afternoon cooking class, tour, dinner, overnight stay and morning cooking class. The guest cottages are also available on their own, starting at $250/weekend night. Meals and cooking classes may also be enjoyed a la carte. 18501 Greenwood Road, 707-895-2333, philoapplefarm.com.

Mosswood Market Café and Bakery has house-made baked coffeecake, scones and cinnamon rolls, hot-pressed sandwiches on La Brea bread, lovely bowls of mixed greens, soups, coffee and tea. The intimate Mosswood space also includes an olive oil bar, an outpost for Stella Cadente Olive Oil, where wide-mouth Mason jars are available for oil to go. 14111 Highway 128, Suite A, 707-895-3635, mosswoodmarket.com.

The Other Place is a 500-acre ranch that comprises four separate cottages perched high on a ridge above Boonville overlooking the Anderson Valley. Kitchens are modern, stoves wood burning and other conveniences abound. Barbecues and hammocks are also there for maximum enjoyment. Rates start at $200/weekend night for two people and two dogs. Children and dogs are welcome. 707-895-3979, sheepdung.com.