24 hours in...Downtown Napa

Rise and shine
Located inside the swanky Carneros Inn compound, The Boon Fly Cafe is more of a country cousin with its quaint porch swing and roadhouse exterior. Skip through the Napa-bound crowds and pull up a chair at the bar if you're flying solo (or duo) and wrap your lips around their Boon Fly Benedict and fresh mini donuts. 4048 Sonoma Highway, 707.299.4870.

Napa has no shortage of bakeries, but the butter-scented Sweetie Pies is one of the most charming. Carbo-load with zucchini muffins, lemon cream scones, sticky buns, croissants and coffeecake. And toss in a couple of tarts for later snack attacks. 520 Main St., 707.257.8817.

Wine Tasting
One of the oldest wineries in the Carneros, and nearly impossible to find without a GPS, Bouchaine Vineyards is worth the hunt. Chardonnays are a strong-suit in this little spot of rustic solace, with a variety of different styles -- oaky to crisp. 1075 Buchli Station Rd, (800) 654-WINE .

Not many wineries have their own artist-in-residence. Then again, not many wineries have sod walls. Literally built into the side of a hill, Artesa is a mix of powerful visual elements--both natural and man-made. Head for chardonnay and pinot noir here. 1345 Henry Rd., 224-1668.

Check out dozens of small-production wines from cultish (and soon-to-be-cultish) winemakers from throughout the valley at Vintner's Collective, an insider tasting room in downtown Napa. A favorite of sommeliers and locals, its a low-key spot to get some top sips. 1245 Main St., 255-7150.

Lunch
Double-parked limos and cell-phone-yacking wine barons lining the sidewalk belie the fact that Bistro Don Giovanni is, in fact, a pretty casual spot by Napa standards. It's the valley's hang-out--where everyone from the mommy-tracked to the fast-tracked rub elbows and chow on house-made focaccia, strawberry lemonade, bistro burgers, rustic pastas and, of course, pizza. 4110 Howard Lane, 224-1090.

If you're in a rush, scatter at the Oxbow Public Market -- picking up little nibbles to share at Pica Pica (corn arepas); Model Bakery, Taylor's Automatic Refresher (sweet potato fries), Roli Roti, Fatted Calf, and finally, a oyster or two (or twelve) from Hog Island Oysters. Buffet-ho! 644 First St.

Explore Walk off all those delicious calories with a hike through Skyline Wilderness Park, where treks from simple to hardcore follow the contours of Sugarloaf Mountain. Less adventurous can while away the time at the Martha Walker Garden. 2201 Imola Ave., 252-0481

Happy Hour & Diner

Ready to get back into the saddle? Belly-up to the BBQ and cabernet at Bounty Hunter Wine Bar where there actually is a saddle seat for wild and wooly buckaroos like you. Happy hour goes from 3 to 7pm Tuesday through Friday,with ribs, slaw, bbq and even a few beers at Napa's rowdiest wine bar. 975 First Street, 226.3976.

Polar opposite neighbors, Cole's Chop House and Ubuntu say a lot about the kind ying-yang mindset of Napkins. Cole's (1122 Main St., 224-6328 )attracts the local steak-and-potatoes-set who flock here for elbow-rubbing and casual outdoor dining by the river. Unlike Upvalley steakhouses, you'll find few tourists, less pomp and slightly more affordable prices for a dry-rubbed porterhouse and iceberg wedge. Ubuntu, on the other hand, is a quirky but nationally-renowned vegetarian restaurant that even hardcore carnivores can appreciate. (1140 Main St., 251-5656).

After Hours

Though most of Napa's sidewalks roll up after about 9pm, the newly opened Silo's Jazz Club keeps the party going -- albeit with mellow restraint -- until midnight on weekends. Live music Wednesday through Saturday. 530 Main St., at the Napa Mill, 251-5833.