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Get to know Graton

Adjacent to nothing but on the way to everything, Graton's worth the detour.

Vibe: The tiny hamlet of Graton is a local getaway spot between Santa Rosa and the coast that barely registers on the map. The mellow vibe of the area draws off-beat creative types seeking a quiet refuge and like-minded souls. Adjacent to nothing but on the way to everything, Graton's worth the detour.

Eat: You can case the town in a matter of minutes -- it's only about a block long. On the north and south corners are ying and yang restaurants Underwood Bistro and Willow Wood Market Cafe. The PM-friendly bistro has a large outdoor patio and Left Bank aesthetic that begs for berets and deep political discussion over Kir Royales and steak frites. The late-night menu attracts off-duty chefs and other characters until midnight Tuesday through Thruday and until 2am Friday and Saturday.

Across the street, the Willowood is a breakfast and brunch hot-spot as popular with the Baby Bjorn and ironic tee-shirt set as with locals. Grab a seat at the counter or wait it out for a coveted outdoor table, but whatever you do, don't miss an opportunity to try the lemony Benedict and signature Monte Cristo. The town's other popular eatery is Mexico Lindo, serving up tasty regional dishes.

Shop: -- comprised of an eclectic mix art and antiques -- usually stay open until dusk on weekend evenings. Gird up for a night of carousing with a yerba mate or calming tea at Far West Trading Company. Take a post-brunch stroll through Mr. Ryder and Co.'s quirky assemblage of jewelry, art and objets d'art and the often smile-worthy artwork of Graton Gallery's resident creatives. On sleepy weekends, watch out for resident pups sprawled on the sidewalk -- this town is very pup-friendly. Hours can be a bit wonky during the quiet weekdays, so call ahead if you're dying to visit a particular shop.

Drink: Though you might mistake Ace in the Hole Cider pub and micro-brewery for a farm-implement retailer (a mess of tractors and other machines out front), it's a terrific spot for tasting locally-made hard ciders (and grabbing a bit, perhaps hitting the open mic or throwing some darts). Using local fruit, flavors include pear, apple, honey and berry.

Getting there: If you're on your way to the coast through Sebastopol, head north on Hwy 116 (Gravenstein Hwy.). Stop at Andy's Produce, one of the biggest and best outdoor produce stands and Koslowski Farms, where you can get amazing local preserves. The groves you'll see all along the highway are mostly apples, which are prized in this region. You'll have to head east to Sebastopol or west to the coast for lodging, which is what's kept Graton more of a locals' destination than a tourist mecca. It's only about ten minutes from Sebastopol and 20 minutes from the coast, but the roads in and out are all windy, so imbibe with restraint.

Cultural crossroads: Town residents have been very supportive of day laborers who work in surrounding vineyards. In the morning hours you'll often find groups of men on the corners waiting for work. A well-organized, worker-run center offers laborers access to jobs, help with health access, education and safety issues.

Find it:

WIllow Wood Market Cafe: 9020 Graton Road, Graton, (707) 823-0233.

Underwood Bistro: 9113 Graton Road. Graton, (707) 823-7023. Closed Monday

Mr. Ryder and Co.: 9040 Graton Road, Graton, (707) 824-8221

Mexico Lindo, 9030 Graton Rd., Graton, (707) 823-4154.

Ace in the Hole Cider Pub, 3100 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol, (707) 829-1101

Graton Gallery; 9048 Graton Road, Graton, (707) 829-8912

Andy's Produce: 1691 Gravenstein Hwy North, Sebastopol, (707) 829-4522

Far West Trading Co.: 9060 Graton Road, Graton, (707) 823-4880

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