Two-wheeling Wine Country
Take this ride and love it
By CHRISTIAN KALLEN
Surely you’ve seen them by now. Sometimes singly, often in pairs, even small herds of colorful creatures zipping smoothly by the side of the highway. With their bullet-shaped helmets, neon colors and wiry bare legs, it’s easy to mistake them for the advance guard of an invading alien army.
Relax. They’re just recreational bicyclists, out for a weekend whirl in the Wine Country. Why not join them?
Combining palate-pleasing stops with flat-out pumping, bicycle touring could be the best way to burn off all those extra indulgences.
The destination towns to the north – Santa Rosa, Calistoga and especially Healdsburg – make good starting points for a bicycle tour. All have places to rent road bikes and in some cases trail bikes (for more ambitious travelers), and all carry maps to guide you on your way. The Calistoga Bikeshop has a training program to get you in shape for a road race, or at least strong enough to ace the Silverado Trail.
Some shops – like Wine Country Bikes of Healdsburg – can line up a personal guide who will customize your itinerary to your interests, not only in bike-route scenery and level of difficulty but in varietal preferences as well. (Hint: if you like cabernet sauvignon, you’ll be pedaling in warmer climes!)
Also in Healdsburg is the Spoke Folk, a Quonset-hut shop just a block off the Plaza that offers bike and gear sales and repairs as well as rentals. Getaway Adventures of Santa Rosa has a wider perspective still, with kayak tours on the Russian River and bike tours as far afield as the Big Island of Hawaii.
Here are a couple quick ideas for places to pedal, and the wines you’ll sample:
Dry Creek / Alexander Valley: Start in Healdsburg and go out Westside Road to West Dry Creek Road, then north to Lambert Bridge Road halfway up the valley. Cross over Lambert Bridge to Dry Creek Road, go south to Lytton Springs Road and up over the ridge into Alexander Valley. Cross under 101 and continue through the valley, over the Russian River and either up to Geyserville or straight back down to Healdsburg. Varied terrain, hot in summer, moderate to light car traffic, great wines with an emphasis on cabernet, merlot and zinfandel.
Russian River Valley: From Healdsburg, start out again on Westside Road and wind south for 10 miles, turn onto Wohler Road and go over the Wohler Bridge, go back along River Road to Old Redwood Highway and north back to Healdsburg (or south to Santa Rosa). Traffic can be a bit heavier – and faster – the second half of the tour, so be careful. This is pinot country, with memorable sauvignon blanc and chardonnay and the occasional lot of zinfandel.
Napa Valley: From Calistoga, start slowly down Highway 29 toward St. Helena and Rutherford. This is the “morning route” with lighter traffic than in the afternoon, but it can still be more fumes than fumé. If you’re feeling strong, you can go all the way to Yountville, then cut east across the narrow part of the valley to the Silverado Trail. A bit closer is the Rutherford cutoff, toward Lake Berryessa. Going north back toward Calistoga on the Silverado Trail is a much more interesting ride, with more varied terrain, better views and fewer people. Did we mention the wine?
Keep in mind...
Don’t forget your essentials: sunscreen, road-worthy dark glasses, plenty of water and a snack for extra pickup on the long legs between tasting rooms. Helmets are mandatory on county roads, and always a good idea anyway – that guy in the SUV just may be checking his own wine map instead of keeping an eye on the bike lane.
And, oh yes, your credit card. Although it’s technically okay to go wine tasting without buying anything, it’s not nearly as much fun for anyone. One advantage of going with an organized group or through a company that specializes in bike tours is that you can buy your wines and leave them at the winery – a courtesy van will come pick them up before the end of the day.
Then six months later, when you uncork that Russian River pinot, Rutherford merlot or Rockpile zinfandel by the fireplace, you can enjoy not just the wine, but the knowledge that you earned it.
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IF YOU GO
Calistoga Bikeshop 1318 Lincoln Ave. Calistoga 707-942-9687
Getaway Adventures 2228 Northpoint Pkwy. Santa Rosa 707-568-3040
Spoke Folk Cyclery 201 Center St. Healdsburg 707-433-7171
Wine Country Bikes 61 Front St. Healdsburg 707-473-0610
Napa Valley Bike Tours 6488 Washington St Yountville (707) 251-8687
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