Pinot pilgrimage

First the bad news: Most of Russian River's truly awe-inspiring pinot noirs have been spoken for. Sometimes years in advance. In fact, waiting lists for wines from producers like Rochioli, Kosta Browne, Roessler and Williams Selyem stretch for years.

Hey, this is the Russian River after all--the little AVA that went from ho-hum to rock-star status when producers figured out that a cranky little grape called pinot noir actually fared pretty well in this pocket of Sonoma County.

But don't get too deflated by all the hype. Because for every coveted bottle, there are dozens of others that are, well, pretty darned good, maybe even spectacular if you look around for up-and-comers and new vintages that have yet to hit critics' lips.

And, if nothing else, just visiting the birthplace of some of these wines may be enough to quench your thirst. Or perhaps prostrate yourself in front of the tasting staff and beg to get on their mailing list. Trust me, it's been done before.

One of the best places to start your quest: What's been called Ground Zero for Russian River pinot. About 20 minutes southwest of Healdsburg, along Westside Road are some of the tip-toppiest producers in the region--Arista, Rochioli and Williams Selyem.

Unassuming Arista is a relative newcomer, owned by the McWilliams family. The casual winery and picnic grounds with a view are well-worth the visit, as is a soothing Japanese garden hidden around the side. But pinot's are what you're here for (if you can get some). Recent vintages have sold out entirely, but a small amount was allocated for purchase in the tasting room.

Nearby J. Rochioli is similarly low-key, though the name often causes grown men and women to swoon. The much-coveted East and West Block pinots are snapped up by mailing list groupies (with a legendary seven-year waiting list) but the tasting room offers plenty of other great pinots, including some reserves worth checking out. Neighboring Williams Selyem isn't open to the public, but flanking the vineyards is Davis Bynum, another pinot pioneer. Though Bynum recently sold the brand to Rodney Strong, the quiet hillside tasting room remains. The '04 vintage was high-scorer, with equally high prices ($50-$75) but non-estate wines are impressive, with a more everyday price tag.

Continuing south on Westside Road are Gary Farrell and Moshin. Up the steep driveway, Farrell (which has be acquired by Constellation) commands impressive views of the valley and continues produce some great Rochioli Vineyard pinots. Moshin is a small, family-owned vineyard run by Rick Moshin—who got his start learning from neighbors Gary Farrell and Davis Bynum. His pinots, which sell out quickly, are usually good values.

Along the way, you'll pass MacMurray Ranch, the former home to actor Fred MacMurray. This sprawling Northern California ranch opens to the public only on special occasions (notably the last few Sonoma Showcases), and is producing some reasonably priced Russian River pinots after its acquisition by Gallo.

Still thirsty for more? Heading back north toward Healdsburg De La Montanya's a funky little winery garnering plenty of local buzz for their Tina's and Christine's Vineyard pinots. While you're there, check out the cheeky PinUp wines, featuring saucy pictures of female wine club members on the label.

If you're up for a jaunt further north into Dry Creek, Papapietro Perry is a killer pinot producer just breaking onto the national scene. They source grapes from throughout the Russian River and Sonoma Coast, garnering top scores with their rich, lush wines. You'll get a lot of bang for your buck, with this stop—the tasting room is shared with several other small producers, including Anthill Farms, two young winemakers doing some exciting things with Anderson Valley, Coast and Russian River pinot grapes. Just a stone's throw away is Family Wineries of Dry Creek, featuring Dashe's high-powered zins.