GETAWAY
Napa's Secret Tasting Rooms
Way off-the-beaten-path wineries
There’s the Napa full of tour busses, bachelorette-party limos and folks looking for a nice white zinfandel. And there’s the Napa you actually want to visit.
Way off the beaten path, beyond the obvious suspects and Disneyfied chateaux is the hidden Napa that locals and connoisseurs know about. They’re the wineries where you might actually meet the winemaker, taste some insanely great Petite Sirah, walk through the owner’s personal garden or sit with an intimate group of new friends over cabernet and chocolates or wander around a one-of-a-kind architectural masterpiece.
That’s the Napa we’ve come to love. So, after visiting hundreds of Wine Country spots, we’ve picked 10 of our favorite secret Napa tasting rooms. Okay, so maybe they’re not exactly a secret, but all of them are far enough off the grid that you won’t likely get stuck five-deep behind a tour group from Osh Kosh.
Swanson Vineyards (Rutherford)
Swanson's Parisian-inspired pink and coral tasting room is cuter than a puppy in a sailor suit. Which, if you're lucky you might just happen upon (Harvey and Lafitte apparently enjoy a little dressing up).
The salon-style Harvey Tasting is a sit-down affair, dreamed up by daughter Alexis, features pours around seven tastings from some of the winery's best bottles, well-paired with cheese, caviar and Vosges chocolates. Orchestrated by a charming salonnier who orchestrates the event according to “the gestalt” of the group (ie: plays hostess), you’re assured a casual, intimate and enjoyable time with the focus on wine pairing and gabbing with your fellow salonistes.
Pay special attention to the merlot, the winery’s signature specialty. Reservations required well in advance and must be held with a credit card. To ensure a personalized visit, the winery asks to speak directly to the guest. Harvey tasting is $55 per person, held at 11am and 3pm.
Quixote (Rutherford)
Hidden in the hills of Napa, Quixote is a Seusical dreamland of curving lines, brilliant bursts of color, grass-topped roofs and magical golden dome capping everything off like a cherry. Designed by the famously brilliant and elusive Austrian architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser, the winemaking facility has long been off-limits to the public, seen only by those lucky enough to have an "in" with its equally fabled owner, Carl Doumani of Stag's Leap fame (and true Napa royalty).
Fortunately for you, the winery is now open to the public if you call ahead and request a tour. Quixote wines are organically farmed on a 27-acre plot of Doumani's land, producing Panza (a lower-priced Cab and Petite Syrah) and it's premium Quixote--almost worth the price for the uber-cool Hundertwasser-designed label. Reservations required well in advance.
Chateau Potelle (Napa)
Vines are about the only thing stressed-out at Chateau Potelle. Despite the name, there’s no grand chateau or fancy-pants attitude at this altitude—some 2,500 feet above sea level. The wild ride up Mt. Veeder Road keeps away most of the tasting room riff-raff, so chances are you’ll be among the chosen few who taste VGS (Very Good Sh*t) Chardonnay in its native environment, savoring the bird’s eye view of the valley and sleepy wine pup nuzzling your toes. Ain’t life grand?
Vincent Arroyo Vineyards (Calistoga)
In Napa, being called “un-Napa” isn’t usually a complement. But when a quiet, friendly, off-the-beaten path winery is just what you’re looking for, it’s the highest praise Wine Travel can give. Vincent Arroyo (not to be confused with Araujo) is little more than a big old barn off Silverardo Trail serving up some killer wines (Zin, Cab, Sangiovese, swoon-worthy Petite Sirah) off a few old barrels that double as tasting tables. Call ahead to make sure someone’s around to pour (they usually are) and you’ll be welcomed inside. Many of the wines are well under $30, which is rare in these parts.
The secret’s starting to get out about Arroyo, so the winery may be crowded over the weekend, but it’s worth the stop for a little taste of old Napa.
Casa Nuestra (St. Helena)
Established in the late 1970's, Casa Nuestra is unapologetically groovy farmhouse along the Silverado Trail where weed-eating goats and Elvis memorabilia--rather than snobbish pinky-lifters--welcome guests.
While remaining (mostly) under the tourist radar, critics have hailed many of their wines, including their Meritage, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. Worth a try are the Tinto "field blend" wines that blend up to nine different varietals for a deep, lush wine. Keep an eye out for Nava and Cross, the goat weeders who wander the vineyards, along with several friendly winery pups. Just watch out not to tip over the bicycles and Harleys usually parked out front.
Bouchaine (Carneros)
Tucked away in the far southern reaches of the Carneros, Bouchaine is one of the oldest wineries in the region, producing wine since the 1920's. Watch for the turreted barn, since the winery is nearly impossible to find without a map, magnifying glass and some serious navigational skills. Suffice to say, folks who end up on the relaxing covered porch overlooking the vineyards have clearly sought out this little spot of rustic solace.
Tasting room staff couldn’t be more tickled to see you, and the wines are equally approachable. Edging the Napa River and cooled by the nearby San Pablo Bay, Carneros is one of the cooler regions of Napa, focused on pinot noir and chardonnay. The latter is one of Bouchaine’s strong-suits, and you’ll want to taste through their different styles. Best bet: Order up a Table for Two—a picnic basket filled with wine and food ready for you to leisurely enjoy on the porch.
Chappellet Winery (St. Helena)
Chappellet doesn’t have to advertise to get attention. The second winery to open after Prohibition, it’s among the old guard, with Molly and Donn Chappellet holding court over their extensive Pritchard Hill estate since 1967.
The wine is clearly what you’re here for, with their mountain Cabs finally taking their place among the most collectible in Napa. The winery also does a great Chenin Blanc, a fairly rare occurance in Napa. But the unexpected surprise here is Molly’s lush garden. Some of the most impressive in Northern California, they’re carefully unmanicured—meaning decidedly natural, using many native plants and the same earth-friendly practices seen in the vineyard.
Ladera (Angwin)
A former “ghost winery”, this Howell Mountain gem was first built by Chinese railroad workers in the late 1800s. No easy feat, the gravity-fed winery has thirty-inch stone walls made from a nearby quarry. Former cattle ranchers Pat and Anne Stotesbury revitalized the property (you’ll find Pat by the black cowboy hat he always wears) more than a decade ago, filling their extensive wine caves with age-worthy estate cabs from both their Howell Mountain and Lone Canyon Vineyards.
Though they’re turning out some of the best of Howell Mountain, the couple have stuck to their folksy Midwestern roots, making this one of the most approachable “cult” wineries in the region.
Signorello Vineyards (Napa)
Food pairing is the hallmark of Signorello, with special tours designed around either artisan cheese or chocolate tastings offered daily. The tasting salon looks out over an infinity pool, adding to this elite experience. If you really want to get an insider look at the winery, sign up for an exclusive Winemaker Vineyard Tour ($50) that gives you some serious one-on-one time with Pierre Birebent, who’s been heading up the Signorello program for the last ten years. Chardonnay and Pinot are best bets here.
Corison (St. Helena)
Truly artisan-crafted wines from micro-producer Cathy Corison. Her Victorian-style barn is surrounded by the elite Kronos Vineyard, which fans say produces some of the most refined and concentrated Cabs in the Valley. Though it's still an intimate experience, word has begun to get out on this Napa gem. Open by appointment daily.
Vintner’s Collective (Napa)
Check out dozens of small-production wines from cultish (and soon-to-be-cultish) winemakers from throughout the valley at this funky tasting room in downtown Napa. Housed in an 1870’s building that served as a brewery, saloon and brothel, the spot is steeped in history. Taste through a variety of prestigious, under-the-radar wines that can run up to $75 a bottle and are often limited to just a handful of cases. Here’s your chance to taste through some incredible wines you just won’t find elsewhere in a very relaxed environment.
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