Backdoor Calistoga

Calistoga is the Napa of yesterday. And they're planning to keep it that way, thank you very much. Famous for the natural geyser bubbling underneath it, the town has long been a refuge for the weary with its collection of historic mudbaths and spas--some dating back more than 100 years.

Downtown hasn't changed much either in all that time. You can walk the main street, end to end, in under ten minutes. Locals have outlawed--yes outlawed--chain stores and restaurants. Calm and quiet rule (this is a spa town, after all) with the sidewalks rolling up (restaurants and a few pubs are the exception) after dark.

Steadfastly holding onto their roots, however, is what makes Calistogans so real. Despite being surrounded by some of the most exclusive wineries in Napa, there's a true sense of community as you walk around town. You'll get the vibe right away, and residents are usually happy to chat about their town if you get them going. In fact, they've given up a few of their favorite spots to hang out in town. So sit down and sip a spell...

Chillax with Buddah
At the eastern end of the town of Calistoga is Indian Springs, the valley’s oldest continually-operating spa. Fed with mineral water from the geyser, this nearly 150-year-old resort features a naturally-heated pool that dates back to 1917, along with cozy cottages and a modern lodge on 16-acres of land. You’ll have to be a guest or have a spa appointment (try a volcanic ash mud bath) to relax by the Buddha pool. Overseen by very relaxed eight-foot statue of the Asian god, it’s a perfect spot for sipping cucumber water and watching the busy world go by.

Bagpiping in the Vineyards
Even local residents are sometimes at a loss to explain where the sound of bagpipes are coming from on Sunday mornings...but you’ll have a front-row view of the wearing ‘o the plaid. Starting around midday, haunting Scottish tunes emanate from Larkmead Vineyards to “stress the vines”, according to manager Colin MacPhail. The Scotch-friendly spot (Colin and winemaker Andy Smith are both natives), has created a not-so-quiet tradition that’s still under the radar.

Calistoga Roastery’s Table of Knowledge
Ask Clive about the Table of Knowledge at this busy java joint. A favorite gas-up spot for locals, insiders from the wine biz often gather at a table in the back—dubbed the Table of Knowledge—to talk shop. Newcomers and visitors will get an earful of the down and dirty about the wine business, local goings-on and Napa life if the table’s in session.

Bike Tasting
Not into organized tours? Us either. For $79 per person, Calistoga Bikeshop rents high-end cycles, will book reservations at wineries, spas or whatever else you’d like, picks up any wine you purchase, offers wine education (along with some free tasting passes to Vincent Arroyo, Dutch Henry, Twomey, August Briggs and others) and sends you on your merry way. Ask for the Cool Calistoga Tour. Best Sandwich in town
Locals often hem and haw when it comes to their favorite downtown restaurant, except when it comes to the Palisades Deli and Café in the old railway depot. The hands-down winner for a quick sandwich, order up a #5—turkey and cranberry sauce on fresh-made focaccia.

Visit Marchiori’s place
Renowned Italian fresco artist Carlo Marchiori has painted his Calistoga home (called Villa Ca’Toga) in various styles—from Pompeiian to er, birdcage. Carlo offers tours each Saturday morning from May through October, $25 per person. Reservations required.

Best local brews
A brewery in Wine Country? The nerve. A combination hotel, restaurant and micro-brewery, the Calistoga Inn is a favorite watering hole when you’ve had enough of swirling and sniffing. There’s live music every night, a stellar patio and an emphasis on comfort food. Check out the horseshoe pit in the back, which few folks know about.

Cook away the day
Strap on your apron at the quiet bed and breakfast retreat, Casa Lana. A classically trained chef offers intimate one-day classes from tapas to Tuscan cooking throughout the year. Just up the road, the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone has live cooking demonstrations Friday through Monday.

Secret sommelier
Drop into Margaux Singleton’s Enoteca Wine Shop if you’re looking for the real deal on local wines. As someone who knows both sides of the biz (she’s also a winemaker), this longtime local has the skinny on small-production wines from both sides of the pond. Don’t fret if you’re unfamiliar with many of the labels. There are tons of talkers on the shelves and Margaux’s a great gabber—both about wine and the Calistoga scene.

--heather irwin